Hublot

Hublot SA, founded in 1980 in Nyon, Switzerland, is a Swiss luxury watch manufacturer. Established by Carlo Crocco, Hublot distinguishes itself through its “Art of Fusion” concept, combining unconventional materials in its timepieces. The brand is recognised for its porthole-shaped cases and its position within the LVMH group.

History and Founding

Carlo Crocco, born into the Italian Binda Group watchmaking dynasty (known for Breil watches), left the family business to strike out on his own. Driven by a vision to create a distinctive timepiece, Crocco sought to blend traditional watchmaking with modern design elements. He moved to Switzerland and in 1980, he established Hublot.

The name “Hublot,” French for “porthole,” was inspired by the distinctive shape of the brand’s first watch. This original design featured a gold case and, notably, a natural rubber strap – a material previously unseen in luxury watchmaking. Crocco spent three years perfecting the rubber strap, which offered comfort, durability, and a unique aesthetic (Hublot).

Hublot’s initial offering was met with considerable success. The unconventional combination of gold and rubber appealed to a clientele seeking a departure from traditional norms. By 1984, Hublot’s sales had reached $2.5 million (Hublot). Despite this early success, the brand experienced a period of relative stagnation in the late 1990s and early 2000s, as other brands began to experiment with similar material combinations.

Historical Timeline

• 1980: Carlo Crocco founds Hublot in Nyon, Switzerland, and launches the first Hublot watch with a gold case and rubber strap.
• 1984: Hublot’s sales reach $2.5 million.
• 2004: Jean-Claude Biver assumes the role of CEO, ushering in a new era for the brand.
• 2005: Hublot introduces the Big Bang chronograph at Baselworld, marking a turning point in the brand’s history.
• 2008: LVMH (Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton) acquires Hublot.
• 2012: Ricardo Guadalupe becomes CEO, succeeding Jean-Claude Biver.
• 2010: Hublot becomes the Official Watchmaker of FIFA and the FIFA World Cup.
• 2015: Hublot produces the Big Bang Tourbillon 5-day Power Reserve Indicator Full Magic Gold, using a patented scratch-resistant 18K gold.
• 2018: Hublot unveils the Big Bang Diamond, set with 1,282 diamonds.
• 2020: Hublot celebrates its 40th anniversary.
• 2023: Hublot records revenue of CHF 670 million.

Key Collections and Iconic References

Hublot’s collections showcase the brand’s “Art of Fusion” philosophy. Key collections include:

• Big Bang: Launched in 2005, the Big Bang collection is arguably Hublot’s most recognisable. Its bold design, multi-layered construction, and use of diverse materials define its aesthetic. The Big Bang Unico models feature Hublot’s in-house Unico chronograph movement.
• Classic Fusion: The Classic Fusion collection offers a more refined and understated take on Hublot’s design language. While still incorporating the brand’s signature porthole-shaped case, these watches often feature simpler dials and a focus on elegance.
• Spirit of Big Bang: This collection extends the Big Bang concept into a tonneau-shaped case. The Spirit of Big Bang retains the bold design and material experimentation of the original Big Bang, but with a distinct case silhouette.
• MP (Manufacture Piece): The MP collection represents Hublot’s most avant-garde and technically complex creations. These limited-edition watches often feature innovative movements, unconventional displays, and cutting-edge materials.
• Square Bang: Launched in 2022, the Square Bang collection marks a departure from Hublot’s traditional round case designs, introducing a square case while retaining the brand’s signature design elements.

Iconic references include:

• Big Bang Original: The original Big Bang, launched in 2005, set the stage for the collection’s success. Its combination of a ceramic bezel, carbon fibre dial, and rubber strap was groundbreaking at the time.
• Big Bang Unico: Models featuring the in-house Unico movement are highly sought after. The Unico movement is a modular chronograph movement with a column wheel and double clutch mechanism.
• MP-05 LaFerrari: This watch, created in collaboration with Ferrari, features a tourbillon movement with an exceptional 50-day power reserve. Its design is inspired by the engine of the Ferrari LaFerrari supercar.
• Big Bang Sang Bleu: A collaboration with tattoo artist Maxime Plescia-Büchi, the Sang Bleu features a geometric design with overlapping shapes and angular facets.

Technical Heritage and Innovation

Hublot has invested significantly in its technical capabilities, developing in-house movements and pioneering the use of new materials.

• Unico Movement: The Unico movement is Hublot’s in-house chronograph movement. It features a modular design, allowing for various complications and configurations. The Unico movement is visible through the sapphire crystal case back of many Big Bang Unico models.
• Meca-10 Movement: The Meca-10 is a manually wound movement with a 10-day power reserve. Its design is inspired by Meccano construction sets, with visible gears and a power reserve indicator.
• Magic Gold: Hublot developed and patented Magic Gold, the world’s first scratch-resistant 18K gold. This material combines gold with ceramic to create a highly durable and scratch-resistant alloy.
• Sapphire Crystal Cases: Hublot has mastered the art of creating cases from sapphire crystal. These transparent cases offer an unobstructed view of the movement and require advanced machining techniques.
• Carbon Fiber: Hublot uses carbon fibre extensively in its watches, both for cases and movement components. Carbon fibre is lightweight, strong, and adds a distinctive aesthetic.
• Ceramic: Hublot utilises ceramic in a variety of colours, including black, white, blue, and red. Ceramic is scratch-resistant and adds a modern touch to Hublot’s designs.

Ownership and Corporate Structure

Hublot is a wholly owned subsidiary of LVMH (Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton), the French luxury conglomerate. LVMH acquired Hublot in 2008, adding the brand to its portfolio of prestigious watch and jewellery brands, which includes TAG Heuer, Zenith, and Bulgari.

As part of LVMH, Hublot benefits from the group’s extensive resources, distribution network, and marketing expertise. However, Hublot maintains its own distinct identity and creative autonomy.

Key Figures

• Carlo Crocco: Founder of Hublot. Crocco’s vision for a watch that combined gold and rubber laid the foundation for the brand’s success.
• Jean-Claude Biver: Former CEO of Hublot (2004-2012) and Chairman of the LVMH watch division. Biver is credited with revitalising Hublot and transforming it into a global luxury brand. His marketing acumen and focus on innovation were instrumental in the success of the Big Bang collection.
• Ricardo Guadalupe: Current CEO of Hublot (since 2012). Guadalupe has continued to build on Biver’s legacy, expanding the brand’s collections, developing new materials, and strengthening its partnerships.

Auction Records

Hublot watches have performed well at auction, reflecting the brand’s collectibility and desirability.

• In 2021, a Hublot Big Bang Tourbillon Croco High Jewellery watch sold for CHF 400,000 at a Christie’s auction in Geneva (Christie’s). This watch was set with hundreds of baguette-cut diamonds and featured a crocodile leather strap.
• A Hublot MP-05 LaFerrari watch sold for $300,000 at a Sotheby’s auction in 2016 (Sotheby’s). This watch, with its 50-day power reserve and Ferrari-inspired design, is highly sought after by collectors.
• Limited edition Hublot watches created in collaboration with artists and athletes often command high prices at auction.

Cultural Legacy and Influence

Hublot has cultivated a strong cultural presence through partnerships with sports teams, athletes, artists, and musicians.

• Partnerships with Sports Teams and Athletes: Hublot has served as the Official Watchmaker for FIFA and the FIFA World Cup, UEFA Euro, and Ferrari. The brand also partners with individual athletes, including Kylian Mbappé, Usain Bolt, and Novak Djokovic. These partnerships raise brand awareness and associate Hublot with high performance and success.
• Collaborations with Artists and Musicians: Hublot has collaborated with artists such as Takashi Murakami, Shepard Fairey, and Richard Orlinski to create limited-edition watches. These collaborations blend watchmaking with art, appealing to a wider audience. Hublot has also partnered with musicians such as Depeche Mode and Lang Lang.
• Sponsorship of Cultural Events: Hublot sponsors cultural events such as art exhibitions, music festivals, and film festivals. These sponsorships reinforce Hublot’s image as a brand that supports creativity and innovation.

Legacy and Significance

Hublot has established itself as a significant player in the luxury watch industry. Its “Art of Fusion” philosophy, bold designs, and innovative use of materials have set it apart from traditional watch brands.

Hublot’s key contributions to the watch industry include:

• Pioneering the use of rubber straps in luxury watches: Hublot was the first brand to combine a gold case with a rubber strap, challenging conventional notions of luxury watchmaking.
• Popularising the concept of material fusion: Hublot’s “Art of Fusion” philosophy has inspired other brands to experiment with combining different materials in their watches.
• Developing innovative materials: Hublot’s development of Magic Gold and sapphire crystal cases demonstrates its commitment to pushing the boundaries of materials science in watchmaking.
• Creating a strong brand identity: Hublot’s distinctive design language and marketing strategies have created a strong and recognisable brand identity.

While Hublot’s designs have sometimes been met with criticism from traditionalists, the brand has successfully attracted a new generation of watch enthusiasts who appreciate its bold and modern aesthetic. Hublot’s success demonstrates that there is a demand for watches that are both luxurious and innovative.