MB&F

MB&F (Maximilian Büsser and Friends) is a Swiss watch manufacturer established in 2005 in Geneva by Maximilian Büsser. The company is recognised for its avant-garde approach to horology, producing limited series of timepieces that blend artistry, engineering, and unconventional design.

History and Founding

Maximilian Büsser, a Swiss national with a background in microtechnology engineering and extensive experience in the watch industry, founded MB&F after serving as the Managing Director of Harry Winston Rare Timepieces. Büsser’s vision was to create a platform where he could collaborate with talented watchmakers, designers, and artists – his “Friends” – to develop horological creations that defied traditional watchmaking conventions.

Prior to establishing MB&F, Büsser spent seven years at Harry Winston, where he was instrumental in developing the Opus series, a collection of innovative timepieces created in collaboration with independent watchmakers. This experience fuelled his desire to create his own brand, one that would allow him complete creative freedom and the opportunity to explore uncharted territories in horological design.

The name “Maximilian Büsser and Friends” reflects the collaborative nature of the brand. Büsser envisioned MB&F as a micro-engineering and artistic concept laboratory, where he could work alongside a network of talented individuals to bring his unconventional ideas to life. This collaborative spirit is a defining characteristic of MB&F, and it has been instrumental in the brand’s success.

MB&F’s initial years were marked by the development of its first Horological Machine, HM1, which was launched in 2007. This timepiece set the tone for the brand’s future creations, showcasing its commitment to pushing the boundaries of watchmaking design and engineering.

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Historical Timeline

Year	Event
2005	MB&F founded by Maximilian Büsser in Geneva, Switzerland.
2007	Launch of HM1 (Horological Machine No. 1), the first MB&F timepiece.
2008	Introduction of HM2, featuring a rectangular case and jumping hours.
2009	Release of HM3, known for its distinctive cones displaying the time.
2010	Unveiling of HM4 Thunderbolt, inspired by aviation and featuring twin pods.
2011	Launch of HM5 On the Road Again, with a design reminiscent of 1970s sports cars.
2011	Introduction of the first Performance Art piece, a collaboration with Stepan Sarpaneva.
2012	Presentation of Legacy Machine No. 1 (LM1), a more classical design with a suspended balance wheel.
2013	Release of HM6 Space Pirate, a biomorphic design inspired by science fiction.
2014	Introduction of Legacy Machine No. 2 (LM2), featuring two suspended balance wheels.
2015	Launch of HM8 Can-Am, inspired by the Can-Am racing series.
2015	Opens first M.A.D. Gallery in Geneva.
2016	Unveiling of HM9 Flow, with aerodynamic curves and twin balance wheels.
2017	Introduction of Legacy Machine Perpetual, featuring a fully integrated perpetual calendar.
2018	Release of HM7 Aquapod, inspired by jellyfish and featuring a vertical movement.
2019	Launch of Legacy Machine FlyingT, the first MB&F timepiece designed specifically for women.
2020	Introduction of HM10 Bulldog, a whimsical design inspired by bulldogs.
2021	Release of LM Sequential EVO, a chronograph with a unique sequential actuation system.
2022	Unveiling of HM11 Architect, a modular design inspired by architectural structures.
2023	Introduction of the M.A.D.Editions M.A.D.1 Time to Love in collaboration with Fiona Krüger.
2024	Release of HM8 Mark 2, an updated version of the HM8 Can-Am.

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Key Collections and Iconic References

MB&F’s product portfolio is divided into two main collections: Horological Machines and Legacy Machines.

Horological Machines (HM): This collection represents MB&F’s most avant-garde and experimental designs. These timepieces often feature unconventional shapes, complex movements, and unique displays of time. Key references within the Horological Machines collection include:

• HM1: The first MB&F timepiece, featuring a complex movement with four barrels and a unique display of time.
• HM2: Known for its rectangular case and jumping hours, HM2 was a departure from traditional watch design.
• HM3: Recognised for its distinctive cones displaying the time, HM3 was a bold and unconventional creation.
• HM4 Thunderbolt: Inspired by aviation, HM4 features twin pods housing the movement and time display.
• HM5 On the Road Again: With a design reminiscent of 1970s sports cars, HM5 features a unique prism display of time.
• HM6 Space Pirate: A biomorphic design inspired by science fiction, HM6 features a central flying tourbillon and rotating spheres displaying the time.
• HM7 Aquapod: Inspired by jellyfish, HM7 features a vertical movement and a central tourbillon.
• HM8 Can-Am: Inspired by the Can-Am racing series, HM8 features a distinctive case shape and a jumping hour display.
• HM9 Flow: With aerodynamic curves and twin balance wheels, HM9 is a tribute to the streamlined designs of the 1950s.
• HM10 Bulldog: A whimsical design inspired by bulldogs, HM10 features a rotating head displaying the time.
• HM11 Architect: A modular design inspired by architectural structures, HM11 allows the wearer to customise the watch’s appearance.

Legacy Machines (LM): This collection represents MB&F’s more classical designs, drawing inspiration from traditional watchmaking aesthetics. However, even within the Legacy Machines collection, MB&F maintains its commitment to innovation and unconventional engineering. Key references within the Legacy Machines collection include:

• LM1: The first Legacy Machine, featuring a suspended balance wheel and a clean, elegant design.
• LM2: Featuring two suspended balance wheels, LM2 is a tribute to the great watchmakers of the past.
• LM Perpetual: Featuring a fully integrated perpetual calendar, LM Perpetual is a technical tour de force.
• LM FlyingT: The first MB&F timepiece designed specifically for women, LM FlyingT features a flying tourbillon and a distinctive domed crystal.
• LM Sequential EVO: A chronograph with a unique sequential actuation system, LM Sequential EVO allows for precise timing of multiple events.
• LM Split Escapement: Showcasing the balance wheel on the front of the watch, and the escapement on the back, connected by a long staff running through the movement.

In addition to the Horological Machines and Legacy Machines collections, MB&F also produces special projects and collaborations with other artists and watchmakers, further expanding its creative horizons. These collaborations are often referred to as “Performance Art” pieces.

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Technical Heritage and Innovation

MB&F is known for its innovative approach to watchmaking, pushing the boundaries of both design and engineering. The brand’s timepieces often feature complex movements, unconventional materials, and unique displays of time.

Some of MB&F’s key technical innovations include:

• Suspended Balance Wheel: The Legacy Machines collection features a suspended balance wheel, a design element that pays homage to traditional watchmaking while also showcasing MB&F’s technical prowess.
• Sequential Actuation System: The LM Sequential EVO features a unique sequential actuation system that allows for precise timing of multiple events.
• Vertical Movement: The HM7 Aquapod features a vertical movement, a design that allows for a more compact and visually striking timepiece.
• Flying Tourbillon: Many MB&F timepieces feature a flying tourbillon, a complex mechanism that improves accuracy by counteracting the effects of gravity.
• Retrograde Displays: MB&F often uses retrograde displays to indicate the time, adding a touch of visual interest and complexity to its timepieces.
• Use of Sapphire Crystal: MB&F frequently uses sapphire crystal in its timepieces, both for the case and the crystal, due to its scratch-resistance and transparency. This allows for a clear view of the intricate movements within.

MB&F’s commitment to innovation extends beyond its movements and complications. The brand also experiments with unconventional materials, such as titanium, carbon fibre, and ceramics, to create timepieces that are both visually striking and technically advanced.

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Ownership and Corporate Structure

MB&F is an independent, family-owned company. Maximilian Büsser retains full ownership and control of the brand, ensuring that it remains true to its original vision. The company operates with a small, dedicated team of watchmakers, designers, and engineers, all of whom share Büsser’s passion for innovation and unconventional watchmaking.

MB&F’s independence allows it to pursue its creative vision without being constrained by the demands of a larger corporate entity. This freedom has been instrumental in the brand’s success, allowing it to develop timepieces that are truly unique and innovative.

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Key Figures

• Maximilian Büsser: Founder and Creative Director of MB&F. Büsser is the driving force behind the brand’s innovative designs and unconventional approach to watchmaking.
• Serge Kriknoff: CEO of MB&F. Kriknoff is responsible for the day-to-day operations of the company and plays a key role in its strategic planning.

In addition to Büsser and Kriknoff, MB&F collaborates with a network of talented watchmakers, designers, and artists, who contribute their expertise to the brand’s various projects. These “Friends” are an integral part of the MB&F ecosystem, and their contributions are essential to the brand’s success. Notable collaborators include:

• Eric Giroud: A renowned watch designer who has worked with MB&F on several projects, including the HM4 Thunderbolt and the HM5 On the Road Again.
• Jean-François Mojon: A talented watchmaker who has developed movements for several MB&F timepieces, including the LM Perpetual.
• Stepan Sarpaneva: A Finnish watchmaker known for his distinctive moon phase displays, Sarpaneva has collaborated with MB&F on several Performance Art pieces.
• Alain Silberstein: A French watch designer known for his colourful and whimsical designs, Silberstein has collaborated with MB&F on the LM1 Silberstein.
• Eddy Jaquet: An engraver who has worked with MB&F on several Performance Art pieces, adding intricate details and artistic flair to the timepieces.

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Auction Records

MB&F timepieces have consistently performed well at auction, reflecting their rarity, collectibility, and innovative design. Several MB&F timepieces have achieved record prices at auction, demonstrating the brand’s strong appeal to collectors.

While specific auction records fluctuate, notable examples include unique or limited-edition pieces created for charity auctions like Only Watch. These pieces often feature unique designs or complications, making them highly sought after by collectors. For example, the HM4 Only Watch, featuring a unique design and colour scheme, achieved a significant price at auction, with proceeds benefiting research into Duchenne muscular dystrophy.

The strong performance of MB&F timepieces at auction is a testament to the brand’s reputation for innovation, quality, and exclusivity. Collectors recognise the value of MB&F timepieces as both works of art and examples of cutting-edge horological engineering.

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Cultural Legacy and Influence

MB&F has had a significant impact on the watch industry, inspiring other brands to embrace more experimental and unconventional designs. The brand’s collaborative approach to watchmaking has also influenced the industry, encouraging greater collaboration between watchmakers, designers, and artists.

MB&F’s timepieces have been exhibited in museums and galleries around the world, further solidifying the brand’s reputation as a leader in contemporary horological design. The brand has also received numerous awards and accolades for its innovative creations, including multiple awards at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG), the most prestigious awards in the watch industry.

MB&F’s influence extends beyond the watch industry. The brand’s designs have been featured in films, television shows, and video games, further expanding its cultural reach. MB&F has also collaborated with artists and designers from other fields, such as fashion and architecture, demonstrating its commitment to cross-disciplinary innovation.

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Legacy and Significance

MB&F has established itself as a leading innovator in the world of horology. Its commitment to pushing the boundaries of design and engineering has resulted in a collection of timepieces that are both visually striking and technically advanced. The brand’s collaborative approach to watchmaking has also fostered a spirit of creativity and innovation within the industry.

MB&F’s legacy is one of challenging conventions and embracing the unconventional. The brand has demonstrated that watchmaking can be both a technical pursuit and an artistic expression. Its timepieces are not merely instruments for telling time; they are works of art that reflect the creativity and ingenuity of their creators.

As MB&F continues to evolve, it is likely to remain at the forefront of horological innovation, pushing the boundaries of what is possible in watch design and engineering. The brand’s commitment to collaboration and its unwavering pursuit of excellence will ensure that its legacy continues to grow for years to come.