Castelfalfi: An Idyllic Retreat in the Heart of Tuscany
Nature takes center stage at this sprawling estate.
By Irenie Forshaw
Castelfalfi sits within a stone-walled medieval borgo (village) dating back to Etruscan times / ©Toscana Resort Castelfalfi
We arrive at Castelfalfi after dark, driving through the shadowy country roads with little sense of what lies more than a few feet ahead. So it isn’t until the next morning, drawing back the drapes, that we have a moment to take in our surroundings. Below us, the Tuscan hills look like islands emerging from a sea of mist. Lush green olive groves and cypress tree-lined meadows stretch as far as the eye can see.
It is so silent – so completely still – that it’s hard to believe we are less than an hour’s drive from the bright lights of Florence and Pisa. Castelfalfi sits within a stone-walled medieval borgo (village) dating back to Etruscan times that first appeared on a map in 754 AD. Comprising an ancient castle, 2,700 acres of woodland and vineyards, and a collection of villas, the sprawling estate counts the noble Medici family among its owners.
Since then, Castelfalfi has changed hands countless times, eventually falling into disrepair after WW2 as many of the villagers left their homes to look for work in the city. This changed, however, when German travel giant TUI bought the estate over a decade ago and began transforming it into a high-end resort. Last year, Indonesian entrepreneur Sri Prakash Lohia took over the property and started a fresh wave of refurbishments, including revamped guest rooms and a stylish new lobby.
Lush green olive groves and cypress tree-lined meadows stretch as far as the eye can see / ©Toscana Resort Castelfalfi
But it is the surrounding landscape that takes center stage at Castelfalfi. Whether you’re touring the vineyards and olive groves or visiting the beehives to taste fresh honey with the resident beekeeper, you never forget where you are.
These aren’t token efforts, either. The estate is home to a fully working olive oil mill, winery and vegetable garden run by a network of passionate staff who clearly love what they do. If you’re keen to immerse yourself in the Tuscan countryside – without forgoing a touch of luxury – this is your place.
Stay
The room had some lovely touches like the king-size bed topped with a striking wall mural of the Tuscan countryside / ©Toscana Resort Castelfalfi
Castalfalfi is home to 151 elegant rooms and suites. If you’re looking for something traditional (think wooden beamed ceilings and rustic furnishings) opt to stay in one of the ‘tabaccaia’ rooms in the historic tobacco warehouse opposite reception.